gauge ('gaj) n. 1. In knitting, a measurement of how many stitches and rows make up one inch. 2. That thing you (reluctantly) check before starting a project to prevent the compulsion to throw your knitting needles across the room
swatch ('swoch) n. 1. a segment or strip of fabric used to represent the gauge, texture, color, or pattern of the whole piece 2. The necessary evil one must knit in order to avoid the obligatory kneedle throwing (see above)
In a perfect world, you could grab some needles, pick some luxurious yarn, and be on your way. A few hours later you would have an exact replica of the $350 cable-knit sweater you saw in the window of Anthropologie, custom fit to your exact size and shape. Mmmmm...I'm taking a moment to live this fantasy. The truth is, it AIN'T THAT EASY, sister. But don't be discouraged...the real thing is way more fun and satisfying!
Many people knit from patterns, which expert knitters and fiber designers have created after hours and hours of sketching, tweaking, attempting, tweaking some more, and finally publishing. Each pattern follows a similar format and provides important preliminary information, which if followed correctly, will ensure your finished product is just as perfect as the photograph you saw online. Patterns typically start with descriptions of the following:
Size or knitted measurements - This tells you what sizes can be made with the particular pattern you have chosen. Sometimes this section will look like this: XS (S, M, L), meaning the pattern can be knit in four different sizes - extra small, small, medium, and large. The pattern directions will go on to explain each step in a similar fashion. When it says to cast on 50 (54, 60, 68) stitches, it means that if you are making a size XS, you cast on 50. For a size S, cast on 54, and so on.
Materials - This section tells you what type of yarn the pattern was designed for. Using the exact same type of yarn is always an option, but isn't a necessity. Knowing how to substitute different types of yarns will come with experience and practice. In the beginning, have your LYS employee help you pick out an alternative if you don't want to go with what is recommended or if you can't find the yarn that was specified in the pattern. Another option is finding something that is of similar weight. Weight is often depicted with a little symbol and a number, as designated by the Craft Yarn Council of America. A link to these weights is found here. If you know the weight of the recommended yarn, you can find an alternative yarn in a similar weight and you will probably be good to go.
When choosing an alternate yarn, be careful of the drape. Drape describes how something will hang or fall, just as you might have guessed. Different yarns create different drapes - knitter beware! Check with your LYS expert, or knit up a swatch (as described below) with the yarn you choose to see if is going to hang right.
The materials section also tells you how much yarn you will need. If you are using the same yarn as the pattern recommends, purchase as many skeins as the pattern tells you to. If you are using something different, you may have to do some math. Let's say you are knitting a pattern that calls for three skeins of yarn, and each skein contains 110 yards. This means you will need (3 x 110) yards, or 330 yards to complete the project. You decide to use a different yarn, which is available in skeins which contain 90 yards each. To get a total of 330 yards, you need (330 divided by 90) skeins, or 3.67 skeins. Looks like you will be buying 4 skeins, and will have a little left over.
Gauge - Here is where the designer tells you how many stitches make up one inch (or four inches) using the recommended yarn and needle size. Why do you care? Well, in order for all of the proportions to be correct as you knit, your gauge has to match the pattern's gauge. This is probably the most CRUCIAL THING YOU WILL EVER DO. You will whine and mope as you knit your swatch, but it's better than whining and crying over a sweater intended for your sister that will only fit your Yorkie. Trust me...been there. The pattern will establish the necessary gauge; for example, 19 stitches and 29 rows = 4 inches/10cm using size 7 needles. Your job is to do whatever it takes to make your yarn match this gauge.
You do this by making a swatch - a simple square, created by knitting in the stitch pattern dictated by the designer. Often, the swatch is made with stockinette stitch (St st) which you will soon be a master of. Typically, you want to measure how many stitches in your swatch fit into 4 inches or 10 centimeters (4"/10cm), so knitting up a swatch that is at least 4" x 4" is a GREAT idea (hint, hint). Start with the needle size that the pattern recommends and cast on the approximate number of stitches that should fit in 4", plus a few extra. Knit in the pattern stitch until you have enough rows to measure 4" up and down. Then pull out your ruler. Measure how many stitches make up 4" across and how many rows make up 4" up and down. You can also buy one of these handy gadgets, which helps you to measure your stitches per inch:
The window enables you to count your stitches while keeping the swatch flat. With this particular gadget, count the stitches in the window (2"), then multiply by two to get your stitches in 4". If you have 22 stitches in 4" and the gauge is for 19, you have more than the recommended gauge. To fix this, you need to use LARGER needles, so that fewer stitches are in every inch. If your swatch has 16 stitches in 4 inches, you need SMALLER needles so that more stitches are in every inch. So you switch needles and knit a new swatch. Measure again and adjust again (and again and again) until you nail it.
If you are a gauge-hater like me, you might ask: "But what happens if I don't check my gauge? Who freaking cares about this gauge-(expletive)?" Well, pretend you are building a house out of bricks. Your measurements call for standard sized bricks in order for your house to be the correct size. Your local hardware store is out of standard bricks, so you decide to use something else, and you build your house out of really big cinder blocks. You follow the instructions that call for bricks...and your cute little cape is now a huge, oversized concrete warehouse. Or, you use tiny glass tiles, and your house (although lovely!) is fit for a Barbie doll. Luckily, in knitting, changing the needle size can turn your cinder blocks into bricks. Home sweet home!
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